Going for Golf

Brocket Hall

Unless blessed with sufficient stamina to take on 36 holes in a day or the wherewithal to stay the night and play two courses over two days, visitors to Brocket Hall in Hertfordshire have an agonising choice – the Melbourne or the Palmerston?

Opinion is pretty evenly divided as to which is better, but all are agreed that both are truly great courses which combine to make it one of the most appealing golf venues in England.

Romantics with a fondness for classical English landscapes and a feel for history might prefer the Melbourne, which is the older of the two. Named after Lord Melbourne, who was Prime Minister in the first half of the 19th century and lived in the magnificent hall that proudly dominates the 500-acre estate, it gently rolls around this perfect piece of English parkland. With majestic specimen trees sprinkled liberally about, the handsome backdrop of Brocket Hall and a glorious lake complete with waterfalls and wonderful wildlife, the Peter Alliss-designed course is a visual feast as well as a tough test.

After teeing off under the stern gaze of the big house you will happily lose yourself in the lovely landscape. With its demanding carries and watery menace, the lake – which comes into play both early and late in the round – obliges you to stay alert and not be too distracted by the beauty of the surroundings. Crossing the pretty stone bridge that spans the lake is significantly more enjoyable if your ball stays dry.

The fourth and final time that you have to take on the lake is on the fabulous 18th hole. A sweeping, downhill par-five, it provides a fitting climax and a great matchplay hole where, if you crack a decent drive away, you might feel tempted to go for the green in two. Despite sitting on a two-shot lead, Trish Johnson went for it in the final round of the Laura Davies’ Invitational back in 1999, drowned her ball and eventually had to settle for second place.

Irrespective of whether or not you got on in two, you can ride on the automatic ferry that gently carries golfers over the water to the green. As you cross, look left and you’ll see the Auberge du Lac, which is the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Hertfordshire. And then look right for the oak tree beneath which Mary Queen of Scot’s sister Elizabeth was sitting in 1558 when she was informed by a galloping horseman from London that she was the new Queen. One way or another, the ferry will provide an unforgettable climax to what is certain to have been a memorable round.

Students of British history will know that Lord Palmerston was Lord Melbourne’s Foreign Secretary and succeeded him as Prime Minister. And the golf course that bears his name is certainly every inch the equal of its illustrious neighbour. Its character, however, is rather contrasting as it’s a woodland course that has been sensitively routed through what was originally part of Hatfield Forest. Enormous care has been taken to preserve the hardwood trees in particular and Donald Steel, the course’s architect, deserves considerable credit for the unobtrusive way the course sits so comfortably in its historic setting.

Although opinion among the members as to which is the more enjoyable is pretty evenly divided, because there are no long carries over water, the Palmerston is the undoubted winner with the women. Somewhat tighter between the trees than the more forgiving Melbourne, the Palmerston is also said to favour those who are more accurate off the tee and is thus popular with lower handicappers.

Knowing your capability should help you choose the right option when – as happens frequently on this course – you are faced with alternatives. The third and fourth holes, for example, offer choices from the tee with central bunkers dividing the third fairway, challenging golfers to play to their left while the fourth provides the temptation to drive left over a very deep hollow. The more testing gradients on the immaculate greens also favour those fortunate enough to possess a reliable putting stroke. But irrespective of whether you putt wonderfully well or rather poorly you will appreciate the glorious views over the surrounding countryside that the elevated Melbourne provides in abundance.

With two outstanding courses, plans to build a dedicated corporate and visitor facility, a fabulous house offering stunning accommodation, a Michelin-star restaurant, first-class practice facilities, a delightful par-three course, a famed academy, more than 500 acres of glorious Hertfordshire countryside and easy access to the A1 and M25, Brocket Hall has everything, including, of course, heaps of history.