Going for Golf

Le Paradis

Was ever a golf course more appropriately named than Paradis Golf Course? At the south-western tip of the tropical island of Mauritius, this must surely rank among the most beautiful 18 holes anywhere in the world.

The almost impossibly picturesque Le Morne peninsula gets its mournful name from a local legend which says that runaway slaves hiding in caves leapt to their deaths from the basalt peak rather than surrender to the British – who, in a tragic irony, were intending to offer freedom from conquered French colonialists back in 1835. Morne (or Brabant) Mountain, which soars almost 2,000 feet from the sea, is one of the most famous tourist destinations on the island, and the backdrop to most of the front nine holes on Paradis Golf Course … plus several on the back nine. The peninsula, recently designated a World Heritage site, is also known for its fantastic flora, and this is evident everywhere, with coconut and date palms lining the fairways and bougainvillea, poinsettias and fragrant frangipani around the greens and tees. Guests at Le Paradis Hotel & Golf Club – one of the most luxurious in Mauritius – and the neighbouring Dinarobin Hotel Golf & Spa, can play the course for a mere £20, which is an absolute bargain … and, as at the hotel, the welcome and service from golf staff is exceptional.

The putting area in front of the spacious, elegant and well-appointed clubhouse is typical of the high quality of the greens out on the course, while the range is overlooked by the lucky devils living in upmarket homes on the mountain’s densely wooded lower slopes.

The first few holes ease you in (this was one of the few times I found myself feeling completely and utterly relaxed on a golf course) then you reach the fourth, and – surprise, surprise – are faced with a tricky approach across a marina. My line was over a red powerboat, very James Bond, leaving me shaken yet pleasantly stirred. The short sixth at the foot of the mountain offered up to me a rare gift from the golfing gods, a 10ft putt for birdie … but beware the bunkers and shifting winds in the shade of the Morne.

It’s not just the elements that make this such a special course, though. Like all the best courses, this is definitely somewhere you have to think your way around. Take the ninth, the hardest hole, where you can take on the water and attack the green in two, or lay up and try to pitch and putt your way to an unlikely par. The choice is yours. If you’re playing well, and feeling confident, then you can be adventurous; sometimes, though, it makes sense to take the safe option.

Typically, as someone whose indecision is final, I fell, as usual, between two stools … and my ball ‘splooshed’ into the drink as I overcooked the so-called safety shot. 

The Indian Ocean is a big factor on the back nine, and comes into play on several of the holes, not least the majestic 16th, a par five where you can be brave and take a short cut across the biggest lagoon in Mauritius to the fairway … particularly if the tide’s out. Expect to play at least a few of the holes into the prevailing south-east trade winds, although the Morne’s micro-climate means the area is much more sheltered – the east of the island, by contrast, can get pretty blustery … and the sunsets are simply amazing.

White sand traps and turquoise sea abound. Bright red birds flutter from the trees and the greens are just that: lush and true thanks to the seashore paspalum (for all you turf bores out there) that is eminently suited to a tropical paradise such as this.

I played the course three times in a week. The first round blew me away, but, remarkably, I found it increasingly enjoyable the more I played it. The resort is also a great destination for families – or couples – where golf is maybe just one element of the holiday. The hotel offers a range of free watersports for residents, plus fabulous spa facilities and four superb restaurants – and another four at Dinarobin next door.

Serious players, however, can get discounted rates (around £60) at two other courses within a short taxi transfer, at Heritage and Tamarina – and, as an added bonus, Air Mauritius will take your clubs for free.