Going for Golf

Gleneagles - The Riviera touch

Gleneagles

Nearly 90 years later, the five-star resort, which today is owned by the drinks company Diageo, retains the same objective as the original management: namely “the avowed intention to create happiness”. For the golfer, this challenge is accomplished smoothly.

Gleneagles is bliss. Spoiled for choice, there are three 18-hole courses: the King’s, currently ranked ninth in a poll of favourites by Going for Golf readers; the Queen’s, another of James Braid’s scenic masterpieces; and the PGA Centenary, venue for the 40th Ryder Cup match in 2014. Moreover, the Wee Course is a nine-hole echo of the original third track built in 1928; the Golf Academy next to the PGA Centenary is a comprehensive facility; and the pitch and putt nestling in front of the hotel is charming.

Intriguingly, the sweeping terrain of the King’s and the Queen’s were laid out by Braid years before the hotel itself was opened. Between 1918 and 1924 these courses earned a reputation as among the most beautiful in a country long renowned as the home of golf. In that respect little has changed: the magnificent scenery will take your breath away.

While it wasn’t officially known as the Ryder Cup in 1921, the first match between Great Britain and the USA took place over the King’s when players on both sides were enchanted by views of the Ochil Hills and Ben Vorlich. When Lee Trevino came to play, the American remarked that if heaven was half as good then he hoped there were tee times remaining.

It was once home to the Scottish Open but the King’s is now regarded as too short for elite championship golf, though the Scottish PGA, the flagship event on the Tartan Tour, will be held here from October 14-17. For mere mortals, the course remains enjoyable and challenging.

Very much a walking course, the King’s tests every aspect of your game with the emphasis on precision rather than power. When you’ve played a round of golf here, soaked in the glorious Perthshire surroundings and pitted your wits against such an enduring test, it’s easy to understand why Darren Clarke wishes the Ryder Cup could have been staged here.

As the host venue in 2014, the PGA Centenary poses more awkward questions. When the rough is up and the wind blows, this is the most unforgiving of the three courses at Gleneagles. Originally designed by Jack Nicklaus, the course has been revised by David McLay Kidd, the Scottish architect responsible for Bandon Dunes in Oregon. Even he concedes “it’s not for the faint of heart”. What the PGA Centenary shares with the King’s is stunning scenery. Nicklaus reckoned it was the finest parcel of land he’d ever been given to work with. You can see why as soon as you stand on the second tee. The view of the Perthshire straths is just exhilarating. A big golf course in every sense, the walks between some greens and tees make it worth considering a buggy.

For handicap golfers, the King’s is likely to remain the first port of call with the Queen’s a seductive second. While it measures less than 6,000 yards and has a par of just 68, the Queen’s is a gem. Here your eye is just as likely to be caught by a passing herd of deer as the enchanting holes stitched around the loch on the back nine.

Inevitably there’s more to a golfing holiday at Gleneagles than golf. On my last visit, I stayed in one of the modern estate rooms in Braid house, which was effectively a suite with a lounge area and a balcony overlooking a putting green. A sumptuous breakfast is included in the price. In the evening, the Strathearn, Andrew Fairlie and Deseo restaurants offer a variety of dining experiences, all with immaculate service.

Away from the course, the spa is new and among the many treatments on offer is a reviving golfer’s tonic. The club area provides guests with free access to pools and sauna. You can also put down your clubs and lay your hands on a fishing rod, a gun barrel, a riding rein, the wheel of a 4x4 or a falconer’s glove.

Little wonder the hotel is ranked best in the world for leisure facilities. Of course, all of this grandeur comes at a price. Anyone searching for a budget golf break must look elsewhere. For a special occasion, though, Gleneagles still has that Riviera touch, with rooms from £299 per night.