Going for Golf

Palmeraie - Souk it and see

Palmeraie Golf Palace

Forget Sex and the City, souks in the city are what get my juices going. You will never outwit the wily merchants trying to snare you in the labyrinthine alleys of the old medina, but it’s great fun trying. I’m just not sure I will ever find the right occasion to wear those fancy red slippers with the curly toes or the matching fez. But they were a steal.

Stay at the glitzy Palmeraie Golf Palace and you will have plenty of time for shopping and sightseeing in Marrakesh. It lies just 10 minutes from the city centre, handy for a visit after your round. But when you stride out on to its fairways – preferably not in curly-toed slippers – the cacophony of the souks and the melee of its colourful main square, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Djemaa el Fna, with its exotic street entertainers and vendors, feel a million miles away; while the resort itself is a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, being set amid relaxing gardens. The snow-capped Atlas Mountains – close enough to visit on a day trip and where you can ski in winter – rise up on the horizon, creating a stunning backdrop for the resort’s 27 holes. Eleven lakes, mature palm trees – Palmeraie means the Palm Grove – and luxuriant vegetation create a verdant oasis amid the surrounding desert-scape and attract a wealth of bird life.

It is the mountains which are the life-blood of not only Palmeraie but Marrakesh itself. When the city was founded 1,000 years ago, water was channelled from the distant peaks and used to irrigate the previously barren land. Evidence of that is everywhere, with lush gardens such as the Majorelle Garden, a popular tourist attraction established over 90 years ago and later owned by French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. His ashes were scattered there after he died in 2008.

Today, it is golf which is sprouting in Marrakesh and elsewhere in Morocco, as the country aims to gain promotion to golf’s premier league. With a surge of new flights from the UK, Marrakesh is also now much easier and cheaper to reach thanks to the increased competition.

Palmeraie is the work of one of golf’s master craftsmen, Robert Trent Jones Snr, whose original 18 holes were carved from the desert in 1992 and augmented in 2009 by a further nine holes. The opening holes of the main course are a gentle introduction with few surprises; the real test comes as you approach the turn, the demanding ninth hole and its lake-side green setting the tone for the rest of the round, with danger lurking alongside several fairways.

However, while the course challenges all ability levels with its narrow fairways and plentiful water, it is not overly punishing and makes for very enjoyable and relaxing holiday golf. You could quite happily play the course several days in a row and not get bored, especially with such a glorious view to frame the holes.

The Moorish-style clubhouse features a pro shop and there is a golf academy for those who want to brush up on their game. Hire clubs are also available for golfers who prefer to leave their golf bag at home.

When you are not playing golf, the adjacent, five-star Palmeraie Golf Palace will make you feel like a pasha. This top-drawer, Arabian-flavoured resort features a sumptuous spa, expansive leisure facilities including five pools and tennis courts, entertainment comprising a night club and a cabaret bar, superb restaurants ranging from Moroccan cuisine to Japanese and Italian, and, where I stayed, the boutique Le Pavilion du Golf hotel with luxury suites overlooking the course plus the two Michelin-starred Dar Ennassim gourmet restaurant and a hammam.

Having stiffened up following 18 holes and to loosen up for the top-quality nosh, a massage was in order. Being pummelled by a half-naked man while totally naked yourself is a rather strange sensation for a reserved Englishman like me, but I warmed to the occasion – until he doused me with a bucket of cold water.

Guests staying at Le Pavilion du Golf suites are ferried to and from the hotel in stretched golf buggies. A long weekend golfing break will allow you to enjoy the resort’s extensive facilities, play two or three rounds of golf and time to explore Marrakesh. Among other attractions are the Koutoubia minaret, the Menara pool and gardens, and the ornately decorated Bahia Palace, although its highlights are undoubtedly Djemaa el Fna square, with its snake charmers, water-sellers and musicians, and the lively souks.

Now I wonder how those slippers will look with soft spikes…?